Living in the Augarten neighbourhood means having a small corner of Vienna to yourself. Here is our honest list, the places we find ourselves recommending to guests again and again.
The 2nd district, the Leopoldstadt, has become one of Vienna's most compelling neighbourhoods over the past decade. Artists, galleries, new restaurants, and long-established cafés sit side by side. And the Augarten neighbourhood, the area around the Volkertplatz, Karmeliterplatz, and Augarten Park, is its heart.
Mornings
Karmelitermarkt is non-negotiable. Not for the big weekly shop (that's what the Billa is for), but for an espresso at Tewa and a wander through the stalls. Fresh fish from the fishmonger at the corner, excellent cheese from Pöhl, sourdough from the baker on Karmeliterstraße. Anyone who wants something sharper in the late morning. Mochi opposite serves ramen from noon.
Volkertmarkt is the neighbourhood's more intimate counterpart two streets away. Smaller, more multicultural, full of regulars. Turkish vegetables, Polish bread, Egyptian spices. Particularly lively on Tuesdays and Fridays.
Coffee. Café Ansari (breakfast, outdoor seating in summer), Balthasar (specialty coffee), Café Eskeles (classic Viennese with Jewish history in the Jewish Museum).
Restaurants
RamasuriModern Austrian, vegetable-forward, lively from morning to late · Praterstraße 19
MochiCult Asian, fusion & sushi, book ahead · Praterstraße 15
Café AnsariGeorgian-Oriental, lovely for brunch and dinner · Praterstraße 15
Cucina ItameshiItalian-Japanese fusion in the Venetian Dogenhof · Praterstraße 70
NENI am PraterMediterranean / Israeli, sharing plates · Superbude, Prater
Pizza RivaNeapolitan pizza right by the Prater · Heinestraße 36
Pizza MariTrendy, always-packed Neapolitan pizzeria · Leopoldsgasse 23a
Skopik & LohnLively bistro with a famous hand-painted ceiling · Leopoldsgasse 17
HarvestCosy vegan & vegetarian bistro · Karmeliterplatz 1
KarmelitermarktBuzzing market square. Cafés, wine bars & food stalls · Karmeliterplatz
Bars
Das LoftSpectacular rooftop cocktails & 360° views at the Sofitel · Praterstraße 1
Hammond BarUrban cocktail bar, classics, jazz & soul · Taborstraße 33
RamasuriAlso excellent in the evenings for drinks & DJ sets · Praterstraße 19
Strandbar HerrmannRelaxed summer bar right on the Donaukanal · Herrmannpark
PratersaunaTrendy club & bar in the Prater · Waldsteingartenstraße 135
Walking & Sport
Augarten is the largest baroque park within the city walls. Vast, quiet, with many paths, benches under old trees. Magnolias in spring, lavender in summer, golden light in autumn. Half of Vienna jogs here morning and evening, join them.
If you want to go further. The Donaukanal is ten minutes on foot. A tarmac path along the water, perfect for running or cycling. It's 12 kilometres to Klosterneuburg, a lovely Sunday loop.
Swimming in summer. Alte Donau (15 minutes on the U1), Strandbad Gänsehäufel (for sunbathers).
Culture
In the Augarten itself. Filmarchiv Austria (Viennese film history, regular retrospectives), Atelier Augarten (sculpture garden, free entry), Porzellanmanufaktur (for the parents when they visit).
In the wider area. Kunsthistorisches Museum (U2 → 12 minutes), Albertina (U2 → 10 minutes), MAK (Tram 2 → 8 minutes).
Practicalities
Pharmacy. Schiffapotheke at Karmeliterplatz; on Sundays the "Zum Schwarzen Adler" pharmacy on Praterstraße.
Sunday shopping. Billa at Praterstern (until 11 pm), Spar at Wien Mitte station.
Bicycle. WienMobil bikes at Volkertplatz (app required). Citybike stations at the Augarten and on the Donaukanal.
Market. Karmelitermarkt daily except Sunday. Larger weekly market on Saturdays.
What we don't recommend
Restaurants immediately around the Praterstern (tourist quality). Cafés with an English menu first (no Vienna vibe). Anything that calls itself a "Beisl" and charges more than €18 for a Schnitzel (the genuine ones are cheaper).
And if anyone tries to invite you on a Sachertorte bus tour. Decline politely. You live here, the real bakery is three doors away.